Choosing the Best Motorcycle

TL;DR: The best motorcycle is the one that suits your riding style, circumstances and physical size. Figure those out and finding the best bike FOR YOU is simple.

When it comes to choosing the best motorcycle, be it your first or upgrading to move up licence levels, there’s plenty to think about. Of course, there’s the choice of what colour to get. But if you want to find a bike that is right for you, keeps you safe on the road and helps you reach your motorcycling goals, there’s more to consider. Details like where and how you ride, power restrictions and the position of the seat and controls matter a lot.

That’s why we’ve broken how to find the best motorcycle into four easy steps. We’ve even included a simple checklist you can use when checking out wheels you’re imagining yourself straddling. Whether you’re an everyday commuter, a weekend explorer or an off-road warrior, our guide for finding the best motorcycle for you will make buying a bike simple and fun.

Step 1: Your legal licence limits

Before browsing bikes on eBay or Instagram and falling hopelessly in love with any of them, you need to know what you can legally ride. The UK’s tiered licensing system keeps you safe by opening up the power to weight ratio limits with your age and experience. But that also dictates exactly what your options are. A firm understanding of the UK motorcycle licence journey will guide your choices when it comes to browsing and buying the best motorcycle for you.

• AM & A1 (The Entry Points): If you’re 16, you’re limited to a 50cc moped. At 17 or older, once you have your CBT, you can ride a 125cc machine with a power output of up to 11kW. The best 125cc is usually a lightweight, nimble bike that helps you master the basics of balance and gear changes.
• A2 Licence (The Middle Ground): From age 19 things start to get interesting. You can ride bikes with a power output of up to 35kW (47bhp). This is the magic number for many manufacturers—there’s loads of great machines available in this range. You can buy dedicated A2 bikes or adapt larger machines with electronic or mechanical restrictions to make them A2 compliant.

Category A (The Full Licence): If you’re 24 (or 21 with two years of A2 experience), you can take your Direct Access (DAS) training and ride anything. However, just because you can ride a 200bhp superbike doesn’t mean it’s the best choice for your first big machine.

Why 47bhp Matters: If you’re on an A2 licence, pay close attention to the power-to-weight ratio. The legal limit isn’t just about the horsepower; it’s also about the weight of your machine. The bike can’t exceed 0.2kW per kg. This prevents people from stripping all the weight off a powerful bike to make it a pocket rocket that’s actually quite dangerous for a newbie rider.

Pro Tip: Always check the V5 logbook of a bike if you’re buying it for an A2 licence. If it has been restricted, it must have the official paperwork to prove it, or your insurance could be void.

Step 2: Define your riding style

Everyone’s idea of the perfect bike is different. Some want a cruiser for the open road; others are looking for a sports bike that’s nimble and athletic. Then you’ve got touring motorbikes for relaxed long-distance riding. Dual-sport motorcycles can ride pretty much anywhere, any time. ‘Standard’ bikes mix functions – they’ll be good on the streets and longer distances, but don’t take them off-road.

To find your personal best, you need to be honest about where you will actually spend 90% of your time in the saddle. The worst thing you can do is decide on a bike and then put it to work in a situation it’s not designed for, like commuting on a trail bike. The best bike for trails or roads is the one that suits the ride you’ve planned.

• The Commuter and Courier: You need reliability, fuel economy, and weather protection. Scooters and ‘Naked’ bikes are ideal. They are easy to filter through traffic and cost pennies to run.
• The Weekend Warrior: If you’re riding for the thrill of the corners on a Sunday morning, aesthetics and handling matter most. Look at Cafe Racers for style or modern Sports bikes for precision.
• The Explorer: If your two-wheeled dream involves panniers and a tent, comfort is non-negotiable. Adventure (ADV) bikes and Tourers offer an upright position that lets you ride for hours without any stiffness or backache.
• The Off-Roader: Lightweight and durable is the name of the game. If you want to master the mud, a dual-sport or dedicated dirt bike is the only way to go.

Step 3: Ergonomics and experience

You might have imagined yourself astride a Triumph Rocket 3 Storm R, but if you’re a lean yet athletic 5 ‘5 male you’ll struggle to stand, let alone cruise safely on a machine like that. It’s important to tailor your riding dreams to your riding reality. Not just for the circumstances you’ll be riding in, but also your physical stature and skill level.

Finding the right bike height: The sit test

You need to be able to sit on your bike and reach the ground with your feet flat. Balancing on tip-toes is asking for trouble. The easiest way to figure this out is to check the seat height on the models you’re interested in against your own height and inner leg measurement. If you know your measurements and have a couple of bikes in mind, a motorcycle ergonomics simulator is a great place to check if they’re likely to be right for you.

Once you’ve done your homework, head to the dealers or look at a used bike and try them out. Softer suspension on some bikes, like motocross and dual-sports, can mean a higher seat height changes drastically when you actually sit on it.

Check your rider position: Sitting properly on your bike and choosing the right position will influence the control you have when riding. There are three basic rider positions—upright, cruiser, and sports—and they’re influenced by the kind of riding you’re doing and the bike you’re on.

Try out these positions when viewing a bike to ensure you can easily reach the controls with your hands and feet. If you’re stretching for either, you’ll be taking attention away from the road and possible hazards. If you find the right bike but it’s just a tad too high or low, you can get suspension and seats adjusted (at a cost), but we’d recommend finding a motorcycle that’s a great fit for you to begin with.

The danger of choosing the ‘wrong’ motorcycle

Motorcycle riding is about balance and ergonomics. A bike that is difficult to balance or doesn’t feel right is dangerous to you and other road users. The bottom line is, if you feel awkward when sitting on or riding a motorbike, it’s not right for you. 

That kind of motorcycle will increase your risk of being involved in an accident—most likely a ‘manoeuvrability accident’. That’s the kind where you lose control when obstacles appear or when you’re overtaking. Better to choose a bike that suits where you are in your motorcycle licence journey and progress as experience and confidence grow.

Weight Management vs. Engine Size: It is a common mistake to focus only on engine CCs. The actual weight of a motorcycle can matter more for new or upgrading riders. A heavy 600cc cruiser can be a whole lot harder to manage at low speeds or when parking than a nimble, modern 800cc adventure bike.

If you can’t confidently walk the bike backwards into a parking space or pick it up if it tips over, it isn’t the best bike for you right now. That’s not to say it never will be. As your skill, confidence and experience grows, motorcycles that seemed out of reach or impossible for you to master will become likely candidates for an upgrade. It’s one of the things that makes riding so much fun.

Confidence vs. Ego: Choose a bike you can control, not just one you can start. It’s far better to be the rider outgrowing a 400cc bike than the rider who is terrified of their 1000cc bike. Confidence allows you to develop your skills faster. Ego usually develops expensive repair bills.

Step 4: Budget – new vs. used

Once you know what you can ride and you’ve put together your wish list, it’s time to consider your budget. Whether you buy new or used isn’t only about the bike’s price. It’s also about the condition of the machine, your experience and expectations, and the model you’re interested in owning. 

Buying a used bike: Smart savings for new riders

When purchasing your first bike, consider used motorbikes for sale that meet your riding needs. Just like cars, new bikes lose value as soon as they leave the dealer’s plot. As you gain experience, the chances of expensive repair bills due to beginner bumps or slow-speed drops reduce. That’s why it makes more sense to consider a brand-new bike once your competence and confidence on the road align.

Are eBay’s 2nd hand motorbikes any good?

You can find incredible deals on sites like eBay, but you need to go in with your eyes open. A private sale is often cheaper than a dealership, but it comes with fewer protections. If you’re looking at used bikes online:

• Check the V5C: Ensure the seller has the logbook and the VIN matches.
• Look for Service History: A bike with a stamped book is worth more than a so-called bargain with no history.
• Check the Photos: Look for mismatched fairing colours or scuffed bar-ends—these are tell-tale signs of a previous drop.
• Chat with the seller: Talk to the seller. Ask them about the motorbike, what they loved about it, why they’re selling, any niggles to look out for. You’d be surprised what you can learn if you just ask.

The case for new: Modern safety & peace of mind

On the flip side, buying new brings modern safety technology like cornering ABS and traction control. These can be lifesavers for new riders. You also get the security of a manufacturer’s warranty and the option of PCP (Personal Contract Purchase) deals. That can make a premium bike much more affordable month-to-month.

The other costs: Don’t blow your entire budget on the bike. The best motorcycle for you is one you can actually afford to keep on the road. Remember to set aside funds for:

• Insurance: This is the biggest variable for new riders. Get a quote before you buy.
• Protective Gear: A £5,000 bike and £500 worth of quality gear is safer than a £5,500 bike and a cheap helmet you picked up at a car boot sale.
• Maintenance: Tyres, chains, and annual servicing are part of the deal. A maintenance fund will keep you rolling safely.

Step 5: Your buyer-inspection checklist

It sounds simple, obvious even, but don’t assume you’ll be buying the bike you’re off to view before you see it IRL. Many flaws can be covered with careful photography. Buying the bike in your head before you see it for real makes it harder to say no if you discover it’s not right for you. So reserve judgement, take your time, and always run through this basic checklist:

The 5-Point Viewing Checklist

1. The Tyres: Check for tread depth and “squaring off” (where the middle is flat but the sides are rounded). Also, look for the date code; tyres older than five years can become hard and lose grip.
2. Chain and Sprockets: Look for rust or “hooked” teeth on the sprockets. A well-oiled, clean chain usually indicates a well-cared-for bike.
3. Fluids: Is the oil level correct? Is the brake fluid clear or a dark, murky brown? (Brown fluid needs a change).
4. The Frame: Look for any dents or deep scratches on the frame itself. Scratches on plastic fairings are cosmetic; scratches on the frame suggest a heavy impact.
5. The Cold Start: Touch the engine before they start it. It should be cold. A seller who warms up a bike before you arrive might be hiding a machine that struggles to start or idles poorly when cold. If it is warm, ask if you can return in a few hours time to take another look.

The HPI Check: Before handing over any cash, run a HPI check. It costs a few pounds and will tell you if the bike has been written off, has outstanding finance, or is stolen.

Step 6: Skills over steel

You are the most important part of the bike. You could buy a £20,000 top-of-the-range motorcycle, but if you lack the foundational skills to handle it, you’ll be slower—and significantly less safe—than a confident rider on a 125cc.

So invest in yourself first. The best motorcycle for you is the one you can ride with confidence and competence.

Advanced training makes any bike better because it teaches you how to use its full potential. Whether you’re moving from a 125cc to your first big bike or you’ve been riding for years and want to sharpen your cornering and braking, professional training is the one upgrade that transfers to every bike you will ever own.

FAQs about choosing the best motorcycle